Murphy's Travels to Germany, Iraq and beyond..

Monday, January 23, 2006

Road trip

Ok, I had fun. I was out convoy riding with Rambo’s team on a Sunday afternoon. I'm sure glad I wasn’t a lone journalist driving around Baghdad knocking on terrorist’s door. My travel companions and I drove up-armored HMVWW’s with .50 cal machine guns mounted on turrets.

It most definitely was a different perspective. Can you picture Mogadishu with white people? That’s how it struck me, such a poor country. And yet, there are road-side stands and people standing around talking in small villages. Lots of kids…so many kids and nice to know that even on the ground they wave at you, except for that one that threw the rock, but the gunner got a clean shot on him, so that worked out too.

0700 mission brief. They’re all business as we get the latest intelligence report on the roads we’ll be traveling. Rambo’s team has gone out now about a dozen times, so they’re in a routine and the kidding is flying back and forth, someone got lost once, someone’s been using too many pen flares to warn away drivers. Very loose but professional.

They gave me three seats to fill. It’s me and then one of the specialists I know so she could decipher the technical talk. Then, I invited a Major from a separate command. His people work at the depot we’re going to visit and because it’s so hard to get up there they usually jump at the chance to visit. If, that is, they can fly. Nobody flies there, it’s too romote. At first he said yes, but he didn’t show yesterday morning. I had no notice, either, I could have filled it with people that wanted to go.

He’d sent me an email asking if I knew they’d had 3 IED’s within the last two weeks in that area. I didn’t know that, but Rambo’s team did, even knew where they were. Turns out one was successful, one of the contractors had died just that last Friday. They hadn’t had a memorial, they didn’t know if they were going to either. Those guys get taken care of by their companies and they usually don’t have services like we do.

But during the mission brief, I get a chance to tell them more about our trip and why we’re going.

The U.S. leaves when the ISF is self-sufficient. That means the ISF can fight the insurgency on their own and resupply themselves when they’re out of something, like water, food, ammo, parts, coats, hats, shoes, socks, supplies, everything and anything that keeps their army running day to day. Our part is to build a system they’ll use and get them to use it.

Our team decided to pick a class of supply and force them to use it correctly. That’s not actually true, because that implies we’re forcing them to use the system that the US uses. We’re looking for a system that will survive after we leave, something that works for them. Currently, we re-supply them in a pinch, and that’s been happening a lot. We put them on missions and don’t let them fail. They know that, they’ve gotten use to it and now we have to wean them off the teat. So, off I go to this depot to get a tour and see if it will support our requirements. Its run by U.S. contractors but this entire system will be turned over to the Iraqi’s at some point.

It turned out to be a non-eventful trip, the depot is perfect, but I was extremely interested in the trip itself and the perspective from the ground. The one major theme that struck me, was our control of the roads.

We control the roads. And when I say that, I mean that when our convoys drive down the roads, everybody else gets off, the civilian traffic pulls over. The IED’s are on the sides of the roads and in the medians, so we drive down the middle. From half a mile down the road, you can see cars pulling over to get out of our way. Want to know how we trained them to do that? We shoot at them. It’s called escalation of force.

Without giving away too many details, the first thing we do is wave at them to get off the roads. If that doesn’t work, we show them our weapons. If that doesn’t work, we fire a flare at them. If that doesn’t work we fire warning shots into the ground in front of their vehicle. If that doesn’t work, we assume intent and are free to blast them. It doesn’t take too long for the word to get out that we open fire with .50 cal machine guns which go thru engine blocks and I’ll be damned, they stop. Everybody pulls over, the whole countryside is trained.

It’s a little different driving up behind people. Most of them pull over, but you’ll catch the odd truck driver lumbering along half-asleep who jerks his vehicle off the road with a start, or the guy carrying furniture that’s piled way to high and not tied down too good and you see him hitting the sides of the road and almost loosing loads and feeling bad. Half of me think it’s a little harsh. The other half hears how many IED’s get emplaced and have killed our guys every day. The population is starting to turn bad guys in and we hear about that at least a couple of times a week. Its still a very dangerous place and our safety is ahead of anybodies feelings. We will leave here, but it will be safely. They'll just have to be patient.

I can say that since the referendum overall attacks are down and I hope it stays down. Here's a picture with the crew, hope it posts. It was a unique experience, going to have to try it again.






Best wishes from Iraq.

3 Comments:

Brittany said...

HAPPY BIRHDAY! LOVE YOU!

1/23/2006 11:34 AM

 
Nancy J said...

Hi Tim

I have been remiss in not writing sooner--I am good with emails, but not at remembering to go to specific sites to post messages. Is there any way I can post links to photos for you to view? I have put some up on Shutterfly.com to share trips and holiday photos with friends. Here is a copied travelgram from our Nov. trip to Argentina. Hope to see you at home soon, Nancy Johnson

We decided to visit Argentina to visit our friend, Anabel Gaetan, who we had met several years ago when she was doing Spanish teaching at a local high school and she was living with friends of ours who were her host family. She made the mistake of inviting us (we did warn her we would show up!), and we had always wanted to visit South America, so off we went.

As luck would have it, we found that Wilson McCrory (Mike’s cousin’s son or our ’nephew’ for ease of reference) was going to be studying in Buenos Aires at the same time we would be there. We were thrilled to have two charming and competent translators to help us in traveling, and it gave us a chance to get to know Wilson better as a young man as we had mostly seen him as a child when we visited his family in North Carolina.

We visited Buenos Aires, Cordoba (Anabel’s home), and Iguazu Falls—all in the upper half of the country. We traveled by airplane and a comfortable two-level, long distance bus, due to the national airline that was going on strike while we were in Iguazu Falls. That gave us a 17 hour, overnight ride back to Buenos Aires that we had not anticipated but luckily Mike and Wilson bought tickets as soon as we found out about the airline strike (and they got two of the last few available tickets). We made it back to BA in time to catch our plane back to the US to come home to winter.

Highlights of Buenos Aires

The Degesi’s (Wilson’s host family) welcoming us into their lovely home

Enjoying the parks in the city with beautiful lavender jacaranda and red flame trees

The San Telmo antique market on Sunday, along with tango demonstrations

Tierra Santo (the Holy Land)—a fiberglass theme park portraying scenes from the life of Jesus, next to the domestic airport on the water’s edge

The delicious steaks and wines that were very inexpensively priced

Recoleta Cemetery with the famous Evita Peron crypt and many others in various states of disrepair

Meeting Wilson’s friends from his school program—all great kids
Surviving the insane traffic and driving of everyone in Buenos Aires

Enjoying the soccer team fans and their celebrations

Highlights of Cordoba

Being welcomed so warmly by Anabel’s family and enjoying her father’s famous asado (outdoor grilling of the best pork and beef we have ever eaten)

The comfortable human scale of the city, with easy walking around to see the Jesuit University (first one in Latin America) and other historic buildings (and shop!)
The team project of making Thanksgiving dinner with Anabel, her sister Macarena, Wilson and Mike peeling, stirring, and cooking—and having Anabel’s dad rescue the chickens from the overly hot fire we amateurs made in the grill

A tour south of town to visit a Jesuit estancia (ranch) that funded the university and Bel Grano which was settled by Germans that Peron let enter the country after WWII

Highlights of Iguazu Falls

The amazingly huge and beautiful falls themselves and the beautiful national park surrounding them, and the raft ride next to them
The wonderful pool at the Hotel St. George and dinners on the terrace

Lessons learned on the trip

When the tour is advertised as being both in Spanish and English that means that you hear two sentences of English for every 20 minutes of Spanish. Bring your own translator.

The exchange rate is very much in favor of the U.S. tourist, so it is fun to shop and splurge on meals

Argentineans are very nice, warm people who are very tolerant of my very limited bad Spanish and we never felt unsafe

Get an unlocked GSM equipped cell phone on eBay before you go, buy a SIM card in Argentina and extra minutes for the phone, and have your nephew teach you how to send text messages.

Wilson seems to be spending a LOT of his free time in Cordoba lately with the Gaetan family…(ahem—see the pictures for more clues)! We highly recommend his tour guide services, but you will have to hurry to book him because he is leaving the first week of January.

The attached link to trip photos on Shutterfly.com will tell you more about our adventures in Argentina. We look forward to returning to see the more of the south of country and more of South America.

Write soon and enjoy your December holidays! Nancy and Mike

1/24/2006 12:25 PM

 
paula gronland jacobson said...

Hey Tim. Love the way you get to command the roads down there. Would love to use that technique to get me to downtown Mpls from West Suburbs. Probably without the guns but just with the big tanks.

I am getting your care package ready with some jerky. any other requests I can send to you?

Paula Gronland Jacobson

1/24/2006 2:07 PM

 

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